Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Prague - Cold, Classics and Bones


Our next trip to Europe was to the wintry but magical destination of Prague. We were a bit worried because it had been -15 in the weeks leading up to our trip. Luckily things had started to warm up in the few days before we left. We arrived, not really sure how we were going to get into town, but by following everyone else we managed to get ourselves on to a bus followed by the underground and before we knew it we had managed to get ourselves into town. It was early evening so we dumped our stuff in our room and ventured out into the city and snow to find ourselves some dinner. We weren't too far from the famous old town square so we wandered along there and arrived just in time to see the crowds forming in front of the famous astronomical clock. Apparently the city council blinded the guy who made it so he could never make another one. Have to make sure not to cross anyone in Prague....To be honest the clock was all a bit of an anticlimax. Things turned and little figurines came out but we didn't exactly get excited by the whole thing. We continued through the old town and eventually found ourselves at the famous Charles Bridge. We couldn't see much cause it was dark but we made our way across to the other side, which was much quieter. After a bit of aimless wandering we found ourselves a nice bar situated down by the river and proceeded to tuck in to some authentic Czech cuisine. Jess ordered herself a huge potato pancake and Marcus ordered himself a ridiculously huge pork knuckle. Suffice to say we were both soundly beaten by our dinners and there was plenty of leftovers for the dogs. We had a couple of tasty Czech lagers and then somehow managed to move our full bodies back to the hotel where we could keep out of the cold and sleep away all the food.



The next morning we arose, made the most of the breakfast (although it wasn't exactly anything to rave about) and made our way back in to town. It was back through the old town to the Charles Bridge, famous for having ornate statues all the way along it. Some of it was under repair but it was still very impressive, even ducking around all the piled up snow. The other side of the bridge was the Lesser Town (although it looked just as spectacular if you ask me...). We hiked up the winding rides to the to of the hill where Prague Castle is situated. Was a bit of a hike. We aren't used to climbing hills in London but at least it got the blood pumping to keep us warm. It also gave us a good view back over the city. It was more of a palace than a castle, similar to Versais or Hampton Court, although in the middle of the palace courtyard is a massive Cathedral, St Vitus. Lots of gargoyles and big arches. Typical Gothic fare which the Czech Republic is famous for. The walk through the Castle itself was interesting, but instead of telling us all about the people who lived there, the signs seemed to talk about the construction materials, how thick the walls were and how long it took to build. Maybe we were looking in the wrong place...There were a few art galleries thrown in to the mix too. Plenty of Gothic (and other) artwork although there was so much to take in some of it just passed us by. One of the coolest parts of the Castle was the Golden Lane. It is an old street within the Castle filled with quaint little shops. They were all very pretty and contained lots of random things like ancient suits of armour, as well as tourist stuff too. We finished the Castle with a trip to the torture tower (Grim...) and then made our way back down the hill via St Nicholas Church where we climbed up the tower to get a good view around the Lesser Town and again got to see some gory Czech history. (Czech out Saint Agatha...). It was then time for a late lunch of more beer and tasty Czech Dumplings. We journeyed along the Lesser Town side of the river until we (finally) managed to find the Lennon Wall. It is a wall covered in graffiti and people constantly write on it to make it a mish mash of all sorts of random things. Bet you can't find what we wrote (we sure wouldn't be able to again...). You can't move in Prague without someone trying to encourage you in to their venue to see some live classical music. There are theatres, palaces and churches. We eventually succumbed to the charms of an old baroque church where we were entertained for about an hour and half by an excellent string quartet. Unfortunately it was like being entertained inside a freezer. It was COLD! Even the electric blankets they had laid down on the pews weren't enough to take the chill from our bones. Although Prague is renowned for its nightlife the cold meant that we were happy to return to our hotel room to get the feeling back in our fingers.

One thing we had heard was that the Jewish Quarter was well worth a visit so the next day we made our way over there. Apparently it used to be a walled up ghetto which was the only place Jewish people were allowed to live in Prague until the late 1800s when most of it was demolished and has since been rebuilt. We started our trip with a visit to the Pink Synagogue. It is not a working synagogue but rather a memorial to all the Jews who were killed during WWII. There are thousands and thousands of names all over the inside walls. Outside is the Jewish Cemetery. Because there was not much room there are thousands of people buried in a very small space, all of their graves tightly next to (and on top of) one another. Some of the graves are ancient. We went on to visit the Maisel Synagogue and Spanish Synagogue which were full of details about the history of the Jewish people in the Czech Republic and the rites and rituals of Judaism. Not knowing much about what it means to be Jewish we found the whole thing an interesting and enlightening experience. We than wandered back in to the Old town square where we had a look inside another St Nicholas church. This one is huge on the outside but surprisingly narrow on the inside. We continued the walking tour, this time into the more modern part of town on the hunt for Wencelas Square. We walked for ages until we were well lost, and well out of the pretty touristy part. Turns out we had visited Wencelas Square shortly after leaving old town. Should have brought a map eh? Still good to see some of the less visited parts of Prague. Plenty of beautiful buildings around there too. We dropped in to the National Puppet Theatre on the way back where we were presented with a very entertaining performance of the classical opera Don Giovanni. We weren't sure what to expect but puppetry is an art form in the Czech Republic and we enjoyed ourselves (the theatre was heated too which helped...) Massive schnitzel for dinner and then we were off to the warmth of the hotel room for a good night's sleep after all that walking.

The next morning we were keen to venture a bit further afield so jumped on the train to Kutna Hora, a town about an hour out of town. There was only one thing that was drawing us to this town and that was a visit to the Kostnice Ossuary. The Kostnice Ossuary is a church decorated in the late 1800s with thousands of human bones. The Czech creepiness continues. It is only very small in size and quite an amazing sight to see. There are piles of bones and more creative items like a coat of arms, candle holders and a huge chandelier, reported to contain every bone in the human body. We went for a walk around Kutna Hora but after a while decided there really was nothing else of interest that we wanted to see there. So we jumped back on the train back to Prague, for a last visit back to the old town square and some tasty street food before we were back on the plane and yet again landing in London.

http://picasaweb.google.com/JessicaLMcMillan/Prague#


Monday, February 1, 2010

January

We returned back to a cold and snowy London. Turns out this is the coldest winter for 20 years. It gets pretty cold and dreary outside so you tend to just bundle up and stay home as much as possible. That meant we had a lot of nights at home getting to know our new flatmates better. Playing games and having a few drinks. However, we still managed to get up to a few things out of the house over the course of the month.


The highlight of the month was of course Jess celebrating another year with her first birthday in London (28th on the planet). Marcus and Jess both took the day off from work for birthday surprises. Fresh fruit breakfast in bed and then we were off to Somerset House home of the best outdoor ice skating rink over winter. Marcus hadn't quite thought things through though. Who else is around to go ice skating during the day.....schoolkids!! Hundreds of them! Luckily initial worries turned out to be unfounded as most of them spent the whole time stuck to the walls around the edges. We skated round and round. There weren't too many tricks but it was still good fun. After that it was off for a gourmet three course dinner at 12 Temple Place in the Swissotel. The food was fantastic, as was the service and made us wonder why we weren't going out for more gourmet meals. We went for a walk in the afternoon and then the flatmates came home and we went out for dinner with them. After all that eating out there was more food to be had with Happy Birthday and blowing out the candles on the cake which Marcus had made for Jess. It was sure nothing to look at but it tasted good.

That weekend it was cold but we still managed to get some tourist activity in. This time it was a trip to the Vitoria and Albert Museum in Kensington. There was some interesting stuff there and a wide variety of things to look at but it couldn't help feeling a bit like the museum was jammed full of all the stuff that the other museums didn't want. Nonetheless Jess enjoyed the fashion through the ages exhibition.

That night it was party time. We had some space reserved at the Alwyne Castle around the corner and everyone (including Kate and Phil from NZ) were coming to Islington to celebrate with Jess for her birthday. It ended up being a great night with heaps of familiar faces (and some shenanigans on a skateboard) and a good way to celebrate.

The next weekend it was party time again. This time our flatmate Riki was celebrating his birthday with a good old fashioned flat party. The flatties were there along with Riki's friends from the bar downstairs (where he works as a chef). We also discovered that there is a cupboard in the flat full of random dress up clothes. Not quite what we expected when we moved in but a good load of fun. All in all a good way to keep spirits up when it is so dreary and cold outside.

http://picasaweb.google.com/JessicaLMcMillan/January#