Van Trip Part 1 - France

29/07/2011 - London to Dover
As Friday 29 July rolled around we finished our last day at work and rushed back to the flat for a last pack up of our things. After saying our goodbyes to our flatties we headed off to Dover. There were even fireworks in the sky as we drove away celebrating the start of our travels. We decided for our snack on the trip that we should have an English porkpies as we were looking forward to some European cuisine in the weeks to come. Our ferry was for the next morning so once we finally got through all the evenings traffic we parked up on the promenade in Dover for our first night of free camping in the Iceberg complete with both sea and garden views - oooh la la (oh wait we're not quite in France yet).

30/07/2011 - Calais and Jumieges
The next morning we woke early after an ok sleep - hopefully we will get used to sleeping in the van. We sat on the waterfront to have the first breakfast of the trip, bread and coffee. Looked like it was going to be a nice calm trip on the ferry. Too late for the good weather now England... We headed to the port and boarded on our Sea France Ferry to Calais. We enjoyed the nice views of the White Cliffs of Dover and of the coasts of France on our trip. We had looked into the cost of tolls before we starting our trip so when we arrived in Calais we decided to take the scenic route to Rouen to avoid the extra charges. It was nice to drive through some small towns and to see some sporting figures on the roads as we passed by. The good thing about the roads in France is that there are lots of signs with pictures of the local attractions so it is good to know what is in the area. Every town seems to have its own one. Once we arrived in a camp ground in Jumieges we decided it was going to be too much of a mission to head into Rouen itself and instead chilled out in Jumieges.  We walked into the small town and looked at the abbey of Saint-Pierre-de-Jumieges and had a nice walk along the Seine. Along our way we saw some really cute horses - they were very considerate to each other and stood top to tail in order to keep the flies out of each others faces. Or at least that's what we think they were doing. Of course travelling is all about the food and drink, so we picked up some cidre (French cider) and camberet which we enjoyed back at the campsite.

31/07/2011 - Bayeux
We headed off to Bayeux today and saw a cute bridge along the way. When we arrived at Bayeux we looked around the town and Jess even managed  to try out her language skills and order some croissants. We figured as we were travelling through foreign countries we should at least be making an effort to learn the language, so each morning consisted of listening to a few podcasts and stumbling through the phrases they were trying to teach us. Our French wasn't too good so first off  was Coffee Break French with Mark and Anna. Bonjour! One of the biggest attractions in Bayeux is the Bayeux tapestry so we thought we would check it out. The tapestry depicted the Norman conquest of Britain which culminated in the Battle of Hastings in 1066. It was very impressive and the audioguide gave you just enough information to keep you moving. After finding a campsite  we headed to Omaha Beach which is one of the D-day landing beaches. There we went to the museum and the American cemetery. It was good to see the history although a little depressing. It is amazing to think that there were people dying  less than 70 years ago on those beaches where kids were now swimming. Back to the campsite we had a dinner of brie, ham and salad as well as, of course a baguette. French bread is certainly much better than the stuff they call bread in London. We also tried a local tipple, Calvados. It is basically an Apple based spirit. There wasn't much of a taste of apples though. Jess can't say she was much of a fan and although Marcus kept drinking it eventually he had to give up too. Every country seems to have their "local" spirit which tastes like turps. In France it is calvados.

1/8/2011 - Mont-Saint-Michel and St Malo
We successfully ordered bread and paid in french today as we had struck our first campsite that couldn't speak English. Not too difficult to communicate the basics but more lessons in the van followed. Today we were heading to a site that we had been looking forward to, Mont-St-Michel, which is an abbey on an island. It used to only be able to be accessed by boat or when the tide was right out but now there is a joining road which allowed us with the rest of  the hoards of tourists to visit. It was really beautiful despite all the tourists. It just required us to use our imaginations a little more to appreciate the beauty behind all the people. There is a road which spirals around from the bottom to the monastery situated at the top of the island. The monastery was huge and there were spectacular views from the top as well but the crowds eventually made us decide it was time to head back to the van and carry on with our journey.

Back in the van we headed on to the port city of St Malo. This was a little bit more stressful  due to narrow streets and no where to turn around but we finally found a camping ground (Alet) which is near Forte de la citie which had views in all directions of ports and beaches and St Malo itself which is a walled city. It used to be a pirate haven, yarrrr!  Once we settled in we went for a walk to the Forte by the camping ground and then into St Malo where we blew today's budget on macaroons (I think it was worth it though!).  We walked along the city walls and enjoyed the views. Its a shame they still let traffic into the city as it would be much nicer if it was pedestrianised. I guess that is the tourist in us, rather than the people who have to live there. Back to the van where we did the first proper cooking in the van - red wine chicken (not too foul at all - oh no the bad jokes of the trip started this early!) Le clutiere red wine alongside -we could definitely get used to this.

2/8/2011 Carnac

The next day we ventured inland a bit towards Carnac to see Stonehenge's French cousins. These rocks have been most famous for being the rocks that Obilix, from Asterix comics, carried. It was kind of like Stonehenge but they were much smaller. There were many more of them everywhere though, as well as all the celtic paraphenalia that goes with them. We also appreciated the sunflowers fields which were dotted along the roads. We decided we better have a crepe for lunch before continuing on our journey. We headed to the beach at La Trinitie and found a campsite before heading off to the beach. Unfortunately the weather was a bit overcast and we thought it might even rain so we headed back to the campsite to read until the weather cleared up again. We didn't really know anything about La Trinitie and it turns out it is basically just a holiday resort swarming with English tourists paying lots of money for their campsites. Oh well. When they sun came back we headed back down to the beach for Jess' first swim. Marcus wasn't brave enough to go all the way in though so he just had a little paddle. It wasn't quite warm enough but there were plenty of others giving it a go; both young and old. The beach looked much nicer the second time around as the tide had come in to hide all the gungy sea weed. Back to the campsite for a shower and dinner - on tonight's menu chorizo and red wine risotto matched with a Cote du Rhone. Ooo la la.

3/8/2011 St Hilarie de Reiz
We drove off again with the aim to have a relax at our next campsite. Unfortunately the campsites in the area were of the family holiday resort variety, with giant waterslides and family entertainement. Not really our scene. Luckily we arrived at Plage de la paree Preneau where we happened to stumble upon an Aire de Camping where it is allowed to park up and camp for free.  We were feeling hungry so we decided to walk the 'short' distance to the shop to get our supplies for the night. However, what was meant to be a 1km walk turned into a 5 hour trek, complete with blisters and sun burn. Should have checked the map... We finally reached St-Giles-Croix-de-Vie where we were able to find an open shop before heading back to the van exhausted. At least we got to walk along the beach on the way back. We decided we needed to head to the beach to relax after that so we went for a quick dip. This time Marcus was slightly braver and went in up to his waist. There was an upside to the long walk though - we found a battery shop, Monsieur Batterie - as we had found that our leisure battery had decided to use this time to give up. That night we were rather exhausted so after our pasta dinner we had an early night.

4/8 /2011 La Rochelle
A good start to the day as we headed back to Monsieur Batterie to see about  getting a new battery. We were a little concerned of our lack of french and a hefty price. However the man at the shop spoke a little English and was very helpful and set us on our way with a new battery (much  better than the last) and only €200 lighter in our pockets. We also managed to buy some yummy brioche before we set off to La Rochelle feeling much happier.  When we arrived in La Rochelle the first campsite was full but they directed us to another one where we set up for the night. The weather wasn't looking its  best with on and off rain but that was probably just as well as our skin could do with a  break from the sun.  We then caught a bus into the town where we wandered around and checked out the 3 towers at the port (la Chaine, la Lanterne and St Nicolas) nice white stone buildings.  The town centre is built around the old port area and was still teeming with tourists, despite the weather. It was certainly very picturesque. The sort of place you can imagine yourself spending a luxury weekend sway, sampling the local wines. As we are on a budget, however, we instead enjoyed some nice flan and apple tarte before heading back to camp.

5/8/2011 Teste De Buch

Our plans didn't go to plan today. Our aim was to go to a camping ground where we could get a train into Bordeaux but the camping ground we wanted to go to no longer existed. So we headed off to find another camping ground but alas no luck. We continued further and further away from Bordeaux and after much driving around we finally settled on a camping-car spot in  teste-le-buch near a surfing town called Biscarosse. France is well set out for campervans. This place was massive and well sheltered under the trees with a toilet you could use too. We were lucky to get a sport. We saw plenty of people later on who had to turn away. Giving up on Bordeaux we went for a walk to the town to get some food and see the beach - a much different attitude to the places we had previously been. The town was busy but not bustling. Felt a bit like Mount Maunganui. We sat on the beach and watched some of the local surfers before wandering back to the van. For dinner Jess made duck breast in toffee apple sauce - the duck because it is very french and the sauce as a Normandy speciality. Bon appetite. Marcus claims this was the best dinner Jess cooked on the trip. As we didn't get to Bordeaux we drank a red wine from the region instead.

6/8/2011 Bassin D'Arachon and Biarittz

Early the next morning we headed to Bassin D'Arachon, a slight backtrack, to see a huge sand dune. This had been recommended by our french flatmate in London, Cami. In Marcus' words it was 'really big and sandy like being on a sand dune, you know like the book Dune'. Well no Marcus you know I don't read your silly sci-fi books but yes it was big and sandy but a five year old could have come up with that description.  It was worth seeing though. There were plenty of people scrambling up and over including some buddhist monks who seemed to be enjoying it too.  We then headed on to our next destination Biarritz. It was school holidays throughout Europe, so very busy. Unfortunately we had another day where things didn't go quite according to plan.The camp grounds were full and the traffic was everywhere. We managed to find a park on the road not too far from  the beach at Bidart. After all the driving and hot weather we needed to cool off a bit After 2 swims, some sunbathing and reading we headed back to the van with the plan to head closer to Biarritz to find some dinner. We  thought we deserved a treat as we hadn't eaten out on the trip so far. No such luck - the streets were very busy and narrow and no where to park. Feeling very grumpy we  gave up on eating out and headed out of Biarritz and parked up further south down the coast at Guethary, next to a beach. We made do with bread for dinner as by then heavy rain had set in. An early night for two very tired campers.

https://picasaweb.google.com/JessicaLMcMillan/August2011VanTourFrance