Saturday, August 13, 2011

Van Trip Part 2 - North Spain

7/8/2011 San Sebastian

The next day we woke with optimism that today would be a better day. We crossed the border into Spain. The day didn't  go well to start again as the camping ground at was full and so was the field next to it apparently. As there were no other camping grounds near San Sebastian we parked in town to have a look around. It is a very pretty city, built up on the hills around the harbour with a nice stretch of beach all along the promenade. We walked along the beach into the old town where we stopped for some pintxos (little snacks that you buy from the bar from a couple of Euro each) and Sidra (spanish cider, which they pour from a height to make it bubbly). Jess had pinxtos that looked like a lizard but was actually a sardine and another seafood one. Marcus had chorizo/bacon and fish. Mmm tasty. After a bit more of a wander through the city we headed back to the van and drove along the coast hoping to stumble across somewhere to stay. We parked up in a seaside town called Orio (not where the biscuits come from). It looked like it was all ready for the influx of tourists but they hadn't arrived so there was plenty of space to park. After a walk around we went to the beach. It was a little cold for swimming so just sun bathing today. As the day wore on the crowds did in fact start to arrive and by early evening it was quite busy around the place. We found a little bar by the sea for a jug of sangria before heading back to the van for some pasta for dinner.

8/8/2011 Santander
It wasn't too far to our next stop, Santander, and we were praying that we would find a campsite as it had been a while since we had had a warm shower. Success at last! Arriving early we found a spot at Camping Cabo Mayor so we decided to stay for two nights. Once we had settled in it was time to do some chores (our clothes hadn't been washed for a while either) before exploring  the town. We walked in along the beach, which was golden and busy with a nice promenade and parks scatterd along its length. This seems to be what Oriental Bay is going for, but this is much nicer than Oriental Bay (sorry Wellington). With the warm weather we enjoyed an icecream and continued into the town centre. We went to the supermarket to pick up some supplies but it took a while as the shop went into darkness and the siren started. It was ok though we didn't break it and it wasn't too long until we were back at the campsite. We had a chorizo medley for dinner (normal chorizo, liver - we think and a white one - maybe pork or chicken?)

9/8 Santander Day 2

We started our second day in Santandar leisurely and walked up to the Lighthouse (al Farode Cabo Mayor) which was near the campsite. We got a fantastic view up and down the coast but we hurried away once a bus load of tourists arrived. We then walked along the waterfront. Halfway to the main town is the Magdalena peninsula where we had a walked around the mini zoo and the King's palace when he is in town. Then we laid out at playa de bikini (but some people forgot their bikini tops!) where we had a swim at the nice calm beach and  then headed off to get some food in town. Then it was back to the campsite for a rest before heading out to dinner, our first dinner out since we had started our trip. We had been told  that Barrio Pesquero was the place  to get fresh seafood meals. We wondered if we had it right as we headed along through a dodgy neighbourhood in the port area. With hungry tummies we were starting  to think that we might be out of luck. Then we turned a corner where there were around half a dozen restaurants on one stretch of road where the vendors were competing for our patronage. Not as intense as brick lane but similar on a small scale (and in Spanish). Once we chose which restaurant we decided against the special set menu. A couple along from us were struggling with their mega plate of prawns, and that was only the first course. After referring to our Spanish phrase book Marcus settled on a monk fish fillet and Jess had a hake fillet. The fish certainly was fresh and we enjoyed a nice bottle of Rioja to accompany the meal. They didn't speak any English and we didn't speak much Spanish but it all worked out. You could tell the fish was fresh because through the back door of the restaurant the fish was all sitting on ice having just been unloaded from the ships. Feeling satisfied with our first dinner out since went away we headed back to the camp for a good nights sleep.

10/8 Gijon
Off again the next morning this time to Gijon, further along the coast. We were lucky enough to get a spot at a campsite on a peninsula right next to the sea.  We walked along the waterfront and passed some nice statues - the solarid (a metal looking spider thing) and Monumento ala Medrodel Emigrate - which was a really sad looking lady whose family must have moved away.  It was feeling a bit like we were back in Wellington as it was rather windy. We were glad we decided not to make today a beach day not only because of the wind but as there were millions of  people crammed onto  Playa de Sun Lorenzo. Gijon was pretty similar to San Sebastian and Santander with a city next to a long beach and a promenade to walk along. Unlike its neighbours, Gijon was clearly poorer with the buildings being a bit more run down but was good for a slight change. We ventured into the old town where we saw the house of Jovellananos (a composer we think as there was someone playing music outside). We then continued past all the people drinking cidre in the sun to Parque Como de Santa Catalina an old military battery but now home to another giant sculpture on the hill. Nice panoramic views too. Marcus was then feeling rather tired so we headed through the town via the supermarket to our campsite where he had a snooze while Jess chilled out in the sun.  We had a lovely dinner of chorizo and prawn paella made by Jess - pretty yummy with the cidre we had brought in Santander.

11/8 La Coruna
We stopped along the trip today to visit the Tower of Hercules an old lighthouse in the city of A Coruna. We climbed up it along with the other tourists and could see all around including the ruins on the ground. The Tower is the oldest working Roman lighthouse although actually only the foundations are ancient, the rest having been rebuilt in 1791. After the strong winds encouraged us back down we went on a long drive  trying to  find somewhere to stay. After driving along the coast, through hills, in and out of forests and through little towns and we eventually settled in a rest area not too far out of town where we almost go eaten alive by the bugs.

12/8 Santiago de Compostela and Vigo
We were eager to get on our way today. We stopped at the nice old town of Santiago de Compestella which is where a lot trekkers end their walk across Spain (the one our friend Tree did but we don't think she made it all the way). It is a huge christian pilgrimage and the tourists around did have the look of pilgrims moreso thsn they normally do. We went into the cathedral to have a look. There were loads of people singing and praying. We also looked around some nice historic buildings taking in the Christianity. Before heading on our way we had some churros with a mug of hot melted chocolate which although delicious made us feel a little sickly by the end.

Back in the van we headed to a beach near Vigo called Playa de America where we parked up for the night. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the sun and eventually got brave enough for a swim although it was mighty cold so only lasted a few minutes.

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